Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Need instructions on how to change water pump for 2000 115 hp johnson-J115PLSSB--appreciate the help!?

Water pump replacement, most 70's - early 00's johnnyrude 3 and 4 and some 6-cylinder motors (take the prop off first):

1. disconnect shift linkage under the bottom carb. They used several different mechanisms over the years to fasten the shift rod, some accessed from the port side, some from starboard, most involved a clevis, some with a hex-head screw, some with a cotter pin. Might have to take the bottom carb off to get a clear view of yours.

2. remove the trim tab (scribe a mark across the edge so you can get it back like it was).

3. remove the retaining bolt up in the trim tab cavity.

4. remove the other retaining bolt from the bottom side of the antiventilation plate.

5. remove the four retaining bolts from the perimeter, just above the antiventilation plate.

6. pull the lower unit off.



the shift rod height is adjusted by screwing it in or out, so don't twist it or else it won't fit when you put it back.



during disassembly, pay particular attention to where the o-rings and gaskets are, I won't mention them all here, but they are all essential.



7. There's a grommet around the driveshaft, and one for the water tube - don't forget those.

8. Four hex-head screws hold the water pump housing down.

9. Slide the old impeller off the drive shaft.

10. Slide the new one on. Slip the woodruff key in place just before the impeller covers the keyway.

11. Put a new housing gasket in place. (Hint: a little bit of dish soap does a pretty good job holding the gasket in place while you install the housing.

12. Grease the inside of the housing (trailer axle grease is fine), and shove it down onto the impeller while turning the driveshaft clockwise with your hand. Don't use any kind of tool on the driveshaft splines.

13. Fasten the housing back on.



On reassembly:

* put molly lube on the drive shaft splines (but not on top, there's not enough clearance).

* the rubber o-ring just below the drive shaft splines -- you need that.

* if your shift rod has a crook in it at the top, put that crook to the port side.

* put omc gasket sealant (or some kind of anti-sieze) on the retaining bolts -- or else corrosion will set in %26amp; it'll be a ***** next time.

* use 3m #847 or permatex #2 on the joint between midsection %26amp; lower unit. permatex works fine but it's way harder to clean off there next time around.

*it helps if you disconnect the shift lever from the cable (starboard side).



The OMC gasket sealant is great stuff, so is the 3m 847 -- if you can't find 'em locally, try http://www.ishopmarine.com
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